Overview
South Africa's second-largest city, where we stayed for 3 nights in September 2023 as part of our big Africa tour.
The week we visited had incredible wind. Storms in the days before our arrival had reportedly sent waves crashing into restaurants in nearby areas. So while the weather can always turn, September seems like a risky month. Coming in better weather would dramatically improve the experience.
What to See
- Company's Garden: A beautiful park in the city center, established long ago by colonists and filled with diverse plant species. Perhaps the most tropical spot in Cape Town. It's a bit sad that it represents colonialism, but visually it's worth a stop on any city tour.
- Bo-Kaap: The colorful houses here are absolutely worth seeing. This neighborhood was historically home to the Black community, who painted their houses in vibrant colors as an act of defiance against discrimination. Both meaningful and beautiful.
- V&A Waterfront: Didn't really resonate with us. It's essentially a mall. Tour operators push you toward these "safe" shopping centers throughout South Africa, but going to another country just to visit malls makes no sense. That said, if you end up here, Ocean Basket has excellent seafood, grab their combo platter with some sparkling wine. For drinks, Ferryman's Irish Tavern has a great atmosphere and plenty of wine options.
- Clifton, Camps Bay, and Hawke Bay: The homes in these wealthy neighborhoods are absolutely stunning across a vast area. Even in these affluent zones, you'll see homeless people sleeping at bus stops. The situation has been completely normalized by everyone.
- Hout Bay: You can see sea lions here. They occasionally emerge from the water right onto the shore. For a closer look, there's a ferry tour to Duiker Island, about an hour round-trip for 100 Rand. We went in very rough seas and it was quite an adventure, but a blast. Definitely worth it, the tour operators are very experienced with bad weather. Just try to stay on the covered side of the boat; waves can splash in from the open side.
- Table Mountain: We couldn't visit due to the severe storm. When I heard the English name "Table Mountain" was the literal translation, I had a good laugh. I'd imagined "masa" was some exotic African word.
- Cape of Good Hope: Rain literally blows sideways at you from the sea. Bring a rain jacket. The view from the funicular at the top is genuinely beautiful, though the fierce winds continued throughout our visit.
- Boulders Beach: Lovely atmosphere with wonderful penguins. Don't hesitate, definitely go in.
- Stellenbosch: A beautiful wine region. If you're into wine and have time, this is a must-visit. Both the wine and chocolate tastings we did were excellent (at Fairview and De Villiers). The town center has a lot of beggars and feels a bit unsafe, so stay alert.
General City Observations:
- The tin-shack townships are visible from the airport to the city center. Income inequality is extreme.
- Everything is generally littered. South Africans are not careful about trash; they essentially live among it.
- Traffic lights and pedestrian crossings are barely functional. Rule compliance is zero.
- Nature is stunning but all the best spots have been settled by white residents. They've essentially claimed the most beautiful parts of the city and country.
- The residential style is very American, with wide central streets, suburban villas.
- Food, activities, and wine are excellent value for money. Enjoy it generously.
- The airport was packed even at 5 AM. Security checks are very thorough, especially for domestic flights. Get there early.
- A Bangladeshi taxi driver we met was deeply frustrated with the crime situation. He'd had his grocery shop robbed at gunpoint so many times he was forced to close it. From that perspective, it's genuinely a hard country to live in.
Overall, our feeling was that it didn't feel like Africa. More like an unsafe American or European city. If you're coming specifically to experience Africa, Cape Town alone might not satisfy that expectation.
Tips & Advice
For bar and nightlife, OpenWine wine house had great live music and a wonderfully local atmosphere. The Bailey was also solid for drinks.
For more detailed wine notes, you can find our blog post on the South Africa wine scene online.