Overview
As part of our big Africa tour in September 2023, we spent 4 nights in the largest city of South Africa. The city is pure chaos. Every house is surrounded by massive walls and electric fences, with "armed response" signs plastered on them as deterrents. People walk on highways and medians. They've put up signs everywhere saying "no walking" because of this. Luxury villas sit right next to tin-shack neighborhoods. Billboard ads are all for fancy schools with White kids, as if racism is supposedly gone.
The city has expanded horizontally, so it's genuinely enormous. It's the first time a city felt as big as Istanbul to me, except it's a much more unsafe, ghetto-like version of Istanbul. The level of insecurity seriously gets under your skin.
What to See
- Constitution Hill, a hugely important place for the country's history. What happened here is deeply moving: the abuse inflicted on Black prisoners, the human rights violations at extreme levels. When you walk through the cells, you can literally smell the human odors still soaked into the walls. It's that intense. Inmates had made sculptures and toys out of blankets and towels just to pass the time. Alcatraz looks like a palace compared to this. If you visit, keep in mind the surrounding area is very unsafe. Drive directly in and drive directly out. This is actually the recommended rule for all of Johannesburg, but enforce it strictly here.
- Nelson Mandela Houghton Estate, Mandela's former home, worth visiting for its historical significance. People have written messages on the stones out front; it's an emotional scene. His grandchildren still live there so you can't go inside, but if you're passing through the area, it's worth a stop.
- Lesedi Cultural Village. The tour took us here as a cultural activity. It's supposed to show you local life, but it's completely turned into a tourist trap. The cultural information and dance shows were great, but there's an unnecessary crowd of tourists inside and the staff didn't seem very happy, conditions seemed rough. If you can find a genuinely local experience instead, go for that.
- Munro Drive Viewpoint. Nice panoramic views. Nearby, St John's College has a truly elegant building.
- The downtown area has tons of empty office buildings abandoned by companies that relocated to safer neighborhoods. The Cullinan Building at 69 Main St really struck us. People stuck in tin-shack settlements out of desperation while these massive buildings sit completely empty. It's beyond comprehension.
Food & Drink
- Craighall Park and Parktown North neighborhoods had a great vibe. It's basically where the wealthy live, and there seemed to be no security issues. You'd actually see White people walking around freely. We ate at Acid Food & Wine Bar in the area and really liked both the wine menu and the food.
- Mandela Square is basically a shopping mall with a big Mandela statue and nothing else going on. If you need a mall, go to Rosebank instead. At least it's an open-air mall and you won't feel boxed in. If you do end up at Mandela Square, I'd definitely recommend Mamasamba for food; their mixed appetizer platters and sushi were excellent.
Where to Stay
Our tour put us up at Holiday Inn Express Sandton. No issues with the hotel itself, but it was way too far from the tourist spots, always 30-40 minutes of driving. I'd recommend staying somewhere more central.
Budget
If you're wondering whether to visit Johannesburg as a tourist and reading this for that reason, my advice is: don't. There's not much to see if you come individually. If you're coming on a tour, pick one with as few days here as possible. The security situation prevents you from truly enjoying the activities you do.