Overview
The capital of Chile, which we visited in November 2023 as part of our big South America tour.
Getting There
If arriving by air, a very large airport awaits you. It took us over 30 minutes just to get from the plane to the bus, and that was after a domestic flight.
The city generally resembles American metropolises with plenty of tall buildings, though the streets are much narrower. The suburban area starts just 20-30 minutes out, with more horizontal development and much more greenery than the center. Saturday traffic was insanely congested, especially around midday. If planning excursions outside the city, multiply Google Maps estimates by 1.5x.
Food & Drink
The city is an absolute paradise for wine tourism. Within 30-40 minutes you can reach producers like Vino Cousino Macul and Concha y Toro, both with beautiful facilities and excellent wines. Downtown also has wonderful wine bars.
Our favorite was Bocanariz, both the food and wine selection were superb. The surrounding neighborhood is great for walking around too, has a Kadikoy-Istanbul kind of vibe.
Tips & Advice
If using Uber, absolutely avoid UberX during prime hours, they stick to free roads to dodge tolls and get stuck in horrific traffic.
The city reeks of weed. Marijuana smell rising from every street corner.
Plaza de Armas de Santiago is one of the main squares. During the day it's very upscale, but come evening, the atmosphere changes completely, a shadier crowd of stoners and hustlers moves in.
Budget
Prices are considerably higher compared to Peru and Bolivia. But even the roughest neighborhoods here are a thousand times better than an average spot in La Paz.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Hotel Panamericano. Good location, but the rooms weren't great. If you find a better alternative, skip this one.