Overview
A desert in Chile that we had the chance to pass through, rather than actually visit, in November 2023, as part of our big South America tour.
Getting There
We entered Chile via the Ollague border crossing between Bolivia and Chile, on the Salar de Uyuni-Calama route. But calling it a border is generous. There's a shared point in between where you can only be transferred from the other side, vehicles from Bolivia can't cross into Chile. We waited 1.5 hours in the middle of nowhere because the Chilean transfer driver was being lazy. Then we hit the Chilean lunch break (1-3 PM) and waited another 2 hours. After that, they made everyone open their suitcases, eating up another hour. Crossing overland here is absolute torture. If you have any alternative, skip this entirely.
After clearing the border, it was about a 2.5-hour drive to the nearest city of Calama. This entire stretch goes through the Atacama Desert. Part of the road was fine; part was atrocious.
What to See
The landscapes were truly beautiful though, volcanic terrain, salt lakes that are partial extensions of the Salar de Uyuni, and a desert-like setting that formed a fascinating mix.
Volcan Poruna, which we spotted along the way, was mesmerizing. A proper volcano. They call the area the Ring of Fire for a reason, we saw so many volcanoes it was incredible.
The town of Chiuchiu, the only green spot in the area, sits in a valley that allows vegetation to grow, almost an oasis-like setting. It's also home to the oldest church in Chile. We call it a town, but it's a place that could barely even pass for a village, old and seemingly abandoned. Naturally, nobody speaks English.