Overview
One of the most beautiful spots in Istanbul, where we had the chance to live for three years between 2017 and 2020. Years ago, as students visiting for the day, this island felt like a dream. When remote work became an option, we made the crazy decision to move here, before the pandemic was even a thing.
Living on Buyukada is genuinely delightful. Especially in winter, when the crowds thin out, being able to walk everywhere, feeling like you've stepped 50-60 years back in time through the streets, the ambiance, it's all truly wonderful. We had an incredibly peaceful and joyful time during our three years there.
For anyone considering a similar move, here's a summary of the pros and cons from our experience.
Tips & Advice
Pros:
- Finding a place this immersed in nature in Istanbul is nearly impossible now. It's a genuine oxygen sanctuary.
- If you find a home with a view, you'll have the Istanbul skyline spread before you, arguably one of the most beautiful panoramas in the world. I think this is one of the things I miss most about the islands. Comparable views along the Bosphorus would cost you ten times the rent.
- There are zero safety concerns. Most people on the island don't even lock their doors when they leave. After the constant tension of mainland Istanbul, this was a breath of fresh air.
- Getting to Istanbul takes 20-35 minutes (to Kartal, Bostanci, or Maltepe), and you can reach Besiktas directly in about 1 hour and 15 minutes. If you work remotely, the ferries are quite comfortable and usually not very crowded. You can grab your tea and work during the ride. On calm days, the journey with those views is absolutely heavenly.
Cons:
- Since the only transport is by ferry, you need to plan carefully. Especially in winter, missing a ferry can mean a 1-2 hour delay, so you always need a schedule in mind.
- Despite natural gas being available, coal use is still widespread. This causes terrible air pollution. Moving to this district for its nature and then being exposed to this kind of air quality in winter is genuinely depressing.
- The community on the island is quite mixed. While you'd expect mostly retirees and older residents, there's a sizable population of former horse-carriage drivers. Their education level tends to be lower, so depending on your neighborhood, your kid might learn their first curse word at age 3-4 from the carriage drivers' children.
- Earthquakes. The houses are unfortunately very old, and everyone knows they were built with sea sand. Although most buildings are low-rise and the ground is solid, between the proximity to the fault line and the sea sand issue, finding a structurally safe home is quite difficult.
- No courier company offers direct large-item delivery to homes on the island. For medium to large purchases, you have to pick them up yourself at the Bostanci/Kartal pier and transfer them via cargo boats. Once you arrive on the island, you're at the mercy of the mafia-like types who charge extortionate prices for transport. So if you're moving into a furnished place, buy everything before moving and bring it all at once with a single shipment.
We left for two reasons: earthquake fear and family reasons requiring us to be closer to the mainland. Whenever we visit as tourists now, we still feel wonderful there. We definitely want to live there again at some point in the future. Even though most island residents would resist it, an earthquake-resilient urban renewal that doesn't sacrifice the island to profiteering would be such a beautiful thing. Wait for us, Buyukada.