Overview
We stayed four nights in Hanoi during our February 2026 Southeast Asia trip. After three days in the city, we took a two-night cruise in Ha Long Bay, returned for one final night, then flew to Da Nang.
Hanoi is one of the most chaotic cities I have seen. Exhaust fumes, brutal traffic, crumbling streets, and crowds made it a disappointment. There is less to do than four nights suggests. I would use it as a hub for Ninh Binh, Ha Long Bay, and onward travel, and spend only one or two full days in the city itself.
Getting Around
There was no immigration queue when we landed, partly because we were among the first off the aircraft. Uniformed personnel looked exhausted. In the city, Grab taxis regularly took 10 to 15 minutes to arrive. Most central sights are technically walkable, but the exhaust makes walking unpleasant.
Book day trips in advance and research the season. A tour company warned us that Tam Coc's rice fields would be bare in February, saving us a pointless trip. If Ninh Binh is important, an overnight stay makes more sense than a rushed day tour.
The domestic terminal was less smooth on departure. Some lines moved quickly and others barely moved. Baggage handling created unexplained delays even when everything appeared ready. Security was easy and did not object to water.
The City and Its Traffic
Rubbish is a real problem. Our airport driver used the horn at least 20 times, checked his phone constantly, and rarely stayed in a lane. Traffic seems to survive through a mix of luck and reflexes. Arriving during Lunar New Year briefly gave us empty roads, but by afternoon the city was packed. We even had a nasty stroller fall in the crowd. The pollution burned our eyes and blocked our noses.
Daytime was calmer; late afternoon and evening became much busier. The road to Ha Long Bay was more orderly and passed vast housing and office developments. Despite all my complaints about the city, the people were never cold. Everyone was helpful, and our daughter received endless attention.
What to See
Small neighborhood temples are worth entering whenever you find one. Hoan Kiem Lake gives you a welcome break from the traffic. Ngoc Son Temple was packed for Lunar New Year, with people praying shoulder to shoulder. Turtle Tower is nearby.
The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long was one of the highlights. It reminded me of Topkapı Palace, although it is a citadel complex rather than a single palace.
The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum complex includes the Presidential Palace area and One Pillar Pagoda. During our visit, access to the mausoleum interior was limited to the morning and closed in the afternoon, so check current hours before going.
The Temple of Literature was extremely crowded in the afternoon. The entrance was chaotic, with one ticket line even though another nearby stand sold tickets without a queue. Quan Thanh Temple and Tran Quoc Pagoda sit in a much nicer, greener area and are both worth visiting.
The Vietnam National Fine Arts Museum was interesting precisely because the artistic tradition is so different from ours. Train Street is touristy but original enough to justify a beer while waiting for a train. Hoa Lo Prison is grim and worth visiting if you have time.
The Old Quarter was a letdown: historic, yes, but neglected, polluted, and exhausting. The imperial side of town was much better, with trees, wider pavements, and less chaos. Ngu Xa had some of our favorite cafes, while Tong Duy Tan was the prettiest street we found.
Food and Drink
The cuisine is not instantly easy, and watching pots washed on the street did not inspire confidence.
Cau Go Vietnamese Cuisine was Michelin-recommended. The pumpkin soup and chả cá were good, but lemongrass in the tofu tasted like dish soap to me, and the rice noodles felt pointless. Overall it was mediocre.
Hanoi Local Craft Beer made good beer, although its pilsner leaned toward IPA. The autumn rice beer had an unpleasant corn and puffed-rice taste. Trung Nguyen Legend Café did good almond and coconut coffee.
Pizza 4P's Bao Khanh was excellent. The lager, ginger and passion-fruit kombucha, soy-beef pizza, and honey wines were all memorable. Này Café has egg coffee and a pleasant waterside setting.
MẸT Vietnamese Restaurant & Vegetarian Food 5 was the best meal in Hanoi. Pho, sweet-and-sour chicken, stir-fried shrimp and squid with vegetables, and sautéed rice noodles were all excellent. It gets busy, so reserve.
Verdict
Hanoi works well as a gateway to northern Vietnam and its natural attractions. I would not inspect every corner of the city for its own sake. There are much more beautiful places in the region. 5/10.