The former Inca capital, where we stayed for two days in November 2023 as part of our big South America tour.
Overview
First things first: if you're planning a Peru trip and debating how many days to spend in Cusco versus Lima, skip Lima entirely if you can and come straight to Cusco. The city is absolutely beautiful, mystical, fantastic.
It has a very peculiar atmosphere. The thermometer says 19 degrees but the sun burns like crazy, and even a t-shirt feels too warm. It's entirely the altitude effect. Evenings are quite cool though, and the weather is unpredictable. It can suddenly turn into an epic downpour.
Tips & Advice
The high altitude caused some pressure in my head right after landing. It didn't push too hard afterward, but climbing hills and stairs started to wear you out. You basically have to walk without talking as much as possible. Too much conversation and your head starts spinning. After a few days, it also brought on a headache and general dizziness, like a hangover. Tours typically recommend taking altitude sickness medication preventively, but if you're young and don't have any serious conditions, I'd personally advise against it, but this is just my experience, not medical advice. Consult your doctor before traveling to high altitude. My 60-year-old mother, who had lung deformation from a previous case of pneumonia and an unvaccinated COVID infection, didn't take any either. She struggled at times but managed overall. It makes more sense to carry the medication with you and only start taking it if problems arise.
Don't be surprised if your vacuum-packed items swell or your bottled creams explode and spray everywhere. Due to the altitude, they're subject to extra pressure just like you are. Your toothpaste tubes will squirt out automatically the moment you open them during your stay here. Be prepared.
The flight into Cusco was probably the most stunning part. You descend entirely through mountains, and it genuinely makes you feel something extraordinary. If you're booking your own flights, absolutely get a daytime arrival and try for a window seat. On a cloudless day, you'll see the views of a lifetime.
What to See
They've preserved the historic fabric beautifully. Lima and the Amazon before this felt like very harsh places to live, but Cusco was enchanting. The city planning is solid. The city is especially beautiful in the evening. Since the surrounding hillsides are covered with houses, when their lights come on it creates a wonderful atmosphere. Of course, seeing houses on those hillsides also makes you wonder where on earth people live. South America is truly original in that regard.
Budget
Uber is more expensive in the city, so definitely use regular taxis. Communication can be tricky due to the language barrier though.
San Pedro Central Market is a nice souvenir market. Prices are cheaper than Lima, though they exchange currency at a lower rate, so it's better to arrive with soles already.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Hotel Monasterio San Pedro, which turned out to be an actual active monastery. There were nuns and everything. Some rooms apparently have no windows, which could be a bit suffocating, but staying in a historic building like this was quite enjoyable.
Food & Drink
We ate at a restaurant called El Meson de Don Tomas. They had live music and the band was genuinely fun. The mango-peach piscos were excellent. Alpaca meat is also worth trying.
Hopefully this will be a city we get to revisit someday, together with Machu Picchu.