Overview
As part of our big South America tour in November 2023, we reached the rainforest through a small town called Puerto Maldonado, accessible only by air and river. We spent 2 days completely off the grid, zero internet access. The town's airport is unbelievably tiny; there's no security or anything, you just walk off the plane and straight out.
Where to Stay
I can honestly say I had the most peaceful, beautiful sleep of my life here. The lodge we stayed at, Monte Amazonico Lodge, has no glass windows, just mosquito nets. You truly feel like you're inside the forest at all times. The animal sounds are incredibly loud but somehow deeply calming. The energy is incredible. Even if you saw nothing else, coming here just for this experience alone would be worth it.
Forget air conditioning, there aren't even fans in the dining areas. Bring a power bank and a water bottle, those are absolute necessities. They said the shower water is purified from the river, so don't use it for brushing teeth. Be careful with the ice too, there was a food poisoning incident in our group and it was likely caused by ice. The weather is brutally hot, around 38 degrees Celsius with extreme humidity. Bottled water is very limited; most of the time you drink from large jugs.
What to See
The diversity and sheer size of the trees and insects we saw was astounding. Some highlights:
- Palmera Caminante (Walking Trees) - Trees with elevated roots that can supposedly right themselves over time after being struck by lightning.
- Tangarana Trees (Justice Trees) - Ants live on these trees as protectors. When threatened, they swarm out and attack whatever is climbing the tree. Locals used to use them as a form of punishment.
- Strangler Fig (Killer Trees) - Roots that can extend up to 100 meters, strangling other trees' roots and enveloping their trunks from above. When cut, they release a latex-like substance similar to what fig trees produce, supposedly good for gut bacteria, quite useful in a region where water needs purification.
- Bullet Ant - When it bites you, the pain lasts 24 hours and feels like being shot, hence the name. They're huge, about 1-2 cm long.
Jaguars and pumas have been spotted in the area before, but sightings are extremely rare.
We took a nighttime caiman-spotting boat tour on the river, but visibility at night is very poor. The atmosphere is fantastic but actually seeing animals is nearly impossible. These tours are a bit underwhelming for wildlife, though the ambiance alone makes them worth doing.
Tips & Advice
- After I showered on the first day, I got absolutely destroyed by mosquito bites. Turns out the bugs stay away because of your sweat layer. Whatever you do, don't shower and then go outside. Save showers for right before bed.
- The guide told us to come fully covered in long sleeves because of bugs. We couldn't do that for T-shirts, but we wore long pants at all times. Hiking in 38-degree heat with 100% humidity while fully covered is brutal. That's probably the biggest challenge.
- Our lodge had no boundaries, any predatory animal could technically wander in, but they burn something for mosquitoes in the evenings, and apparently that also keeps predators away.
- You get to the lodges on long, narrow, small boats, so space is very limited. Only backpacks or very small suitcases will fit.
- Compared to African safaris, wildlife observation chances here are much lower because the forests are so vast. They can't ensure safety in areas with high predator density, so access is restricted. Don't set your expectations too high for animal sightings.
- At Lake Sandoval, the sun was practically on top of our heads at 8 AM, it was that hot. Always wear sunscreen for outdoor activities, never go without a hat, and if possible bring an umbrella.
- We went during the dry season, so we had no rain and minimal mud issues.
- Shoes are not allowed in restaurants and common areas, they treat them like indoor spaces, so you go barefoot or in socks. Feels odd in dry season, but makes total sense when you imagine the wet-season mud.