Overview
Bolivia, unfortunately, isn't as lucky as its neighbor Peru. Despite having similarly challenging geography, tourism isn't as widespread as in Peru, which leaves it a poorer country. The lack of direct access to the sea has a massively negative impact too. The country still has a naval command left over from the old days, but no sea to go with it.
Politically, a wide variety of ethnic groups live in the country, making it more complex. There have been 185 revolutions since 1865. These people are permanently in revolt mode.
Getting There
If you're entering Bolivia from Peru, good luck. The road at the border crossing near Lake Titicaca is brutal. Constant construction, closed roads, detours everywhere. If you're not on a tour, I'm honestly not sure you'll find the right route. Definitely travel with a local guide.
The border itself is pure chaos. They move luggage across by tuk-tuk. There's a river and a bridge, but the bridge is basically a full-on marketplace. There's zero control at the crossing, you go and voluntarily present yourself for passport control. Tourists obviously must do this or they'll have problems leaving later, but locals just stroll through freely. Customs inspection happens 20 km past the border, not at the actual crossing, which is a bizarre setup.
From the moment you enter, the difference is obvious. Peru already feels like a country of scarcity, especially in rural areas. But it can't compare to Bolivia. Every bus has luggage and goods piled on top, and the technology is way more dated.
What to See
Just like in Peru, high altitude problems and the sun being far more intense than what you're used to are real issues here too. You do adjust to the altitude after 3-4 days, but you'll still be out of breath doing anything physically demanding.
The rural areas are actually in better shape than La Paz. La Paz conditions were terrible, while the countryside at least has some greenery and even painted houses. Llamas and alpacas roam freely almost everywhere in the countryside.
Food & Drink
- Llama sausage was tasty. Less spicy than what we're used to but enjoyable.
- Despite being this poor and rough, the tap water tastes remarkably good. Hotels and restaurants serve tap water everywhere and it's genuinely great.
- They make good empanadas, try them if you come across any.
- If you find beer from Uyuni, definitely try it. Since it comes from the salt flats, it has a slightly salty taste.
- The world's highest altitude wines come from here. While Bolivia hasn't carved out a reputation in wine culture, they serve exclusively their own wines everywhere in the country. They're way ahead of Peru on this. The wines aren't world-class, but considering the country's situation, they're impressive.
- Dulce de leche is very common and delicious.
Tips & Advice
- The weather is extremely dry. It will crack your lips.
- Women commonly wear bowler hats. If the hat tilts left, she's single; right means married. If the hat is centered, her husband has died, or she killed him. Apparently husband-killing is fairly common.
- High altitude takes 3-4 days to adjust to, but strenuous activities will still leave you breathless.
- Travel with a local guide, especially near the Peru border crossing.