Overview
We had the chance to visit this ancient city on a Sunday in September. While it doesn't feel quite as abandoned as Nysa, the visitor count was still impressively low for what it is, thanks to its location on the Antalya highway, the fact that it was peak season, and it being a Sunday. I'll say the same thing I said about Nysa: if this place were in any other country, it would easily attract millions of tourists a year.
What to See
As of September, the museum was unfortunately closed, apparently since January 11, 2024, with no reopening date in sight. Still, that absolutely should not stop you from visiting, because this is one of Turkey's finest ancient cities.
Beyond its exceptional preservation, the story behind Aphrodisias is equally impressive. It was only discovered in 1958, a remarkably recent find. Ara Guler stumbled upon it by chance. Before that, the villagers of Geyre were literally living among the ancient ruins. They were crushing grapes in ancient sarcophagi to make wine, propping up columns to build cafes. When the site was designated a protected area, the entire village had to be relocated. Ara Guler's exhibition about the site is on display in the area, and the buildings currently used as cafes and exhibition spaces are actually the old villagers' homes.
You should set aside an entire day for this visit. We spent 2.5 hours rushing through and still couldn't see everything. The stadium, theater, swimming pool, baths, it's all spread across a massive area.
The stadium and swimming pool here are so impressive that the theater, which would be the highlight at any other Turkish ancient city, feels almost ordinary by comparison. Sure, we're used to stadiums from other countries, but a swimming pool this massive? I've never seen anything like it. These people were truly living the good life back then. A pool this size is uncommon even today.
Tips & Advice
There's a lack of signage from the very entrance. You don't really know which direction to go. My recommendation: from the museum area, head all the way to the right toward the stadium first. Then continue from the stadium through the central section to the baths, council building, swimming pool, and theater. From the theater, descend back down to the museum area. You'll have a much more efficient tour this way.
If you get the chance, absolutely visit. If you don't get the chance, make one. I'll definitely be back once the museum reopens.