Overview
Trento was larger than I expected. Historic walls, hillside houses and older buildings begin to appear before reaching the center. It has avoided the feeling of a metropolis without shrinking into a small town.
The influence of Austria and the German-speaking Alpine world appears in restaurant names, signs and even the pretzels on menus. Yet Trento still feels distinctly Italian. That overlap gave the city more character than I expected.
What to See
The old town, Piazza del Duomo and Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore are all worth seeing. The most enjoyable approach is to leave the car and wander through the central streets without a strict route.
Castello del Buonconsiglio is a large and imposing complex. We paid EUR 10 and spent about an hour inside. The visit began like a fairly conventional museum, then improved as the rooms, frescoes and decorated ceilings became more elaborate. I especially liked the ceramic stoves, which reminded me of the tile work in Porto. There was also a place to leave our stroller at the entrance.
Verdict
Trento struck a good balance between a substantial historic city and a compact place that remained enjoyable on foot. It was one of the Italian stops where I could easily have spent more time.