Overview
We flew from Singapore to Koh Samui during the Thailand leg of our March 2026 trip. We stayed first around Lamai, then moved to Bo Phut.
My first conclusion was blunt: Koh Samui is overhyped. It is expensive without consistently delivering the quality. Vietnam, especially Hoi An, felt both cheaper and better for a holiday. Samui's tourism industry seems full and no longer interested in the classic Thai ritual of bargaining.
Airport and Transport
The airport is practically inside the town. Our aircraft stopped quickly, made a U-turn on the runway, and unloaded us onto an open-sided bus. Another plane landed while we were still riding beside the runway. Baggage arrived through a wonderfully improvised little carousel. Only three immigration desks were operating, so a full large aircraft could create a serious wait.
Departure was the opposite: one of the nicest small-airport experiences anywhere. Past security, shops and food stayed reasonably priced. There was even massage at normal island rates. The terminal is green, open-air, and full of choices.
Daytime taxi drivers negotiate a little. Grab quoted 380 baht for one route; a taxi offered 1,000 baht for a return trip with an extra stop and waiting, then fell to 600. That ended close to Grab while removing the risk of finding another car.
Songthaew minibuses are open-backed pickup trucks. Two people usually paid around 300 baht between Chaweng and Lamai.
Areas
After Singapore, the island felt dramatically less developed. Roads were old, but traffic flowed calmly without constant horns.
Lamai was poor for a stroller. Pavements were narrow and occupied, and evening traffic made the road unpleasant. On Saturday we found free Muay Thai in the square. Drinks bought you a seat, although a 10 p.m. start became 10:30 after endless promotion. Plenty of locals watched, showing it was not only a tourist show.
The bar scene was extremely direct and some venues clearly catered to paid companionship. On non-fight nights women danced in bars while older men watched from inches away. The deeper side streets contained an astonishing number of similar venues. My favorite name was Hornpub, designed in the Pornhub font. At one "live music" bar, noise from the neighboring venue drowned out the actual band.
"German quality Turkish döner" signs appeared everywhere, an unexpectedly important contribution from us to Koh Samui.
Chaweng is larger and slightly easier to walk, but did not offer much more for us.
Bo Phut and Fisherman's Village were excellent. The pedestrian route and beachfront walk worked, restaurants were much better, live music did not collide from every direction, and the seedier nightlife was less dominant. It felt right for families. For a quality holiday, I would stay in Bo Phut. Lamai and Chaweng make more sense for single travelers or students.
Beaches
Around March 7 we caught a messy seasonal transition: monsoon-like rain and rough sea. The water remained warm, but without usable beaches the island loses much of its purpose.
Lamai Beach was wavy, weedy, and slightly rocky. The sand itself was clean and good for children, but we barely used it.
Crystal Beach was calmer. Sunbeds were scarce, so a towel under the trees was the best option. Chairs on the far right rented for 100 baht. The water stayed shallow for a long distance and the bottom was rocky and slimy, making water shoes essential. Crystal Bay Beach Club looked like a reasonable place to stay if you do not need nightlife within walking distance.
The strangest feature is how hotels interrupt the shoreline. In many areas you cannot simply follow a public seaside road or promenade; access routes run through properties.
Sights
Wat Khunaram is small and visited mainly for its mummified monk. Fifteen or twenty minutes is enough. Wat Ratchathammaram, the Red Temple, is larger and much more impressive.
Tarnim Magic Garden has a good story. Nim Thongsuk began creating the statues in old age and continued until his death, adding figures of himself and his wife and small meditation shelters. The garden takes 15 to 20 minutes. Our return transport cost 1,100 baht, and finding a new taxi at the top looked impossible.
Elephant sanctuaries quoted around 100 USD. We had already done a similar activity in Cambodia and skipped them.
Other Observations
Massage shops are everywhere and prices were fixed around 300 baht for an hour or 200 for 30 minutes. Some eastern venues appeared linked to sex tourism; western areas felt more conventional. Beach massage is a brilliant service: sunbathe and get a massage without moving.
Cannabis rules were confusing on the ground. Thailand liberalized cannabis in 2022, then restricted access to medical use from June 2025, requiring authorized prescriptions. Yet shops remained visible and the smell reached streets and hotels. The accurate description is not "fully legal" or "fully banned," but medically restricted with uneven-looking real-world enforcement.
Fire shows are common and our hotel performer was excellent. Crystal Beach also advertised them twice a week.
Around 6 a.m. an Asian koel called so loudly it sounded as if it were inside our room. Tropical alarm clock, no snooze button.
Hotels and Restaurants
Pavilion Samui Villas & Resort was poor value. The hotel felt old, and a good fire show and decent beach did not compensate. Staff objected when we returned for coffee after taking our baby to breakfast, citing policy. Cigarette and cannabis smoke moved between rooms through terrible insulation. We complained; staff said they could not smell it and did nothing. One star.
Bo Phut Resort was superb. Spend the extra money for this level because the quality difference is enormous. Rooms were large, the beach excellent, and staff attentive. They upgraded us from a garden room to a pool room and gave Nil a teddy bear. Breakfast was excellent.
Seventy Fahrenheit served superb tom yum talay and steamed sea bass. Phensiri Thai Restaurant needs a reservation; we arrived early and still received only a one-hour table, but every dish was excellent.
The Cliff Bar and Grill is attractive, Western-leaning, organic-focused, and has a broad wine list. It is also expensive: 3,400 baht for us, compared with 1,700 at a Michelin-recommended Thai restaurant, plus VAT and service.
Salt & Oak made excellent lobster and shark. Thai Tapas added an original touch to every dish; shrimp cake and duck à l'orange were our favorites. ANNIE is good for healthy bowls, but its chocolate-truffle and Snickers desserts were the real reason to go.
Bacaba had a good by-the-glass wine list. Coco Tam's had a buzzing atmosphere and a nightly fire show. H Bistro and its neighbors offered calmer live music near Fisherman's Village. Chill Inn was a good work space with good tea.
The Jane in our notes was a casual foot-massage place. The Google Maps review, however, is attached to the famous restaurant in Antwerp, so I have not imported that review until the location mismatch is resolved.
Verdict
Koh Samui disappointed us. Roads and pavements were worse than expected, the sea failed us, and the crowd felt tackier than I expected. Bali, Phuket, and Da Nang all worked better for us. The island makes most sense as a high-quality resort holiday with good restaurants nearby, preferably in Bo Phut. Exploring the island itself was mediocre.