Overview
A resort town I revisited after 10 years. Having spent three summers here during university thanks to my father's work, it was both deeply nostalgic and interesting to observe the changes.
What to See
Bodrum Center:
The bazaar still has the same energy and beauty. The fact that every building in central Bodrum is painted white is a superb concept, and that they've maintained it is truly impressive. Our local Santorini. Many venues have closed or changed concepts. The legendary Mandalin Bar has completely transformed from a bar into a nightclub. We had to move on without our trademark mandarin cocktails. Tequila Street has essentially died this year. It was deserted in the middle of peak season. Venue owners say last year was still busy, but this year they're catching flies. The economic crisis is clearly showing its effects.
Ortakent-Yahsi:
Yahsi has changed dramatically. The entire left side from the minibus stop has been completely renovated with live music venues and beach clubs replacing what used to be a family-oriented area. The sea was always lovely here, and with this year's heat, the water was incredibly warm.
Our favorite lahmacun place in Ortakent center changed hands and moved, but the taste is still good. For the curious: Nazar Gurme.
Gumusluk:
The seaside is pleasant, but driving in and out has become absolute chaos. Parking is insufficient, traffic is terrible. Whether it's worth the hassle is debatable.
Boat Tour Coves (Gokova Gulf):
On our sailing tour of the Gokova Gulf, we visited some spectacular coves. The best swimming was at Akbuk and Saridana coves. Akbuk has facilities while Saridana is much more untouched, with a surprisingly conservative crowd of regulars. How they discovered this spot and why they chose it remains a mystery.
Food & Drink
At Cokertme, you absolutely must stop for a Cokertme Kebabi. Captain Ibrahim has elevated this dish to an art form. Portions are massive and delicious. It was so good we shamelessly went back for seconds.
At Kargi Cove, even though the swimming isn't great, Alibar is a must-visit. In the most rustic possible setting, they serve an incredible seafood feast. It's a wonderfully warm family operation, just make sure to call a day in advance to place your orders. The seafood was cooked to perfection.
Tips & Advice
Parking in the bazaar area is tricky. The best bet is the Cevat Sakir underground lot near the bus station and the adjacent market garage, park and walk from there.
Overall, Bodrum is a wonderfully unique place. Don't pay attention to the Turkbuku crowd or the hotel-obsessed types. There's something for every taste. Avoid peak traffic hours and holiday weekends, and you're guaranteed a fantastic vacation.