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Tokyo

Overview

We spent 6 of our 12-day Japan trip (May 2025) in Tokyo, arriving from Kyoto via Shinkansen and departing from Haneda Airport. We stayed in the Minato City area.

Tokyo expanded my horizons in many ways. Japan as a whole is a civilization-level eye-opener in terms of human kindness, consideration, and helpfulness, but the fact that 40 million people in the Greater Tokyo Area can maintain this level of order, zero chaos, no traffic, and immaculate cleanliness is truly remarkable. They're essentially living in a utopia of their own creation. They may have chronic social and workplace issues, but as a demonstration that a metropolis can function without chaos, every human being should visit Tokyo.

Getting There

Metro: Quite complex. Many lines, non-linear routes, countless entrances and exits. Getting familiar takes time. Google Maps helps but sent us wrong on multiple occasions. Once you've started following a route, do not re-query. The constant alternatives will make you lose your current one.

Uber: Operates as premium-only here. 1,000 yen minimum, priced by distance. We used it frequently and liked it a lot. For short distances, it beats the metro hassle, especially with a group. Unlike Hong Kong where you occasionally get sketchy cars, every vehicle here was a premium van.

What to See

City Planning: Rarely do you see a city this well-planned. From our Minato City base (think Besiktas in Istanbul), we reached Haneda Airport, about as far as Istanbul Airport, in just 30 minutes during weekday rush hour at 6:30 PM. In Istanbul that would require a 3-hour head start. Their traffic management is extraordinary.

People are incredibly kind. Even when you're 100 meters away, they'll hold the elevator button and wait for you. Everyone seems to be constantly thinking about how they can help the next person.

There's a lot of high-rise development, but various neighborhoods also have plenty of small, low-rise houses. If they could just sort out the overhead power line clutter, it would be perfect.

Tourist Spots:

  • Ginza: Shopping district without much else. Good restaurants but they're all on upper floors of buildings, research needed.
  • Meiji Shrine: The park is magnificently beautiful with wonderful nature. The sake and wine barrels at the exit are iconic. The shrine itself pales next to Kyoto's temples.
  • Shinjuku/Kabukicho: Both beautiful and bizarre. Best experienced young or single, the nightlife looks serious. Lots of nightclubs but also many paid-companionship venues, which surprised us. Random strange characters pop up as you walk around. Doesn't feel unsafe though, more entertaining than anything.
  • The Giant 3D Cat: Cute installation, but would be better without all the surrounding advertising.
  • Godzilla Head: Very fun. Don't miss it.
  • Asakusa: I had no idea it was this touristy, one of the most crowded areas we saw. The side streets heavily evoke Kyoto. Getting lost and wandering here is pure joy.
  • Sumida Park: Nice views of Tokyo Skytree. Worth a quick photo stop if you're already at Senso-ji.
  • Senso-ji: One of Tokyo's most beautiful temples. The atmosphere is wonderful. An absolute must-see.
  • Nakamise Shopping Street: Excellent for souvenirs with genuinely unique items at every shop. Once you pass something, you won't find it again elsewhere, buy what catches your eye.
  • Higashi Hongan-ji: A lovely neighborhood temple. Worth a stop if passing by, and it's empty.
  • Odaiba: Rainbow Bridge, Statue of Liberty replica, Odaiba Beach. Pleasant area that combines well with mall shopping. The Liberty statue is a bit fake, but the area has its own distinct character.
  • TeamLab Planets Tokyo DMM: Insane queues. We arrived at 1:35 for a 1:30 slot and didn't get in until 1:55. Overall, not worth visiting. The most overrated place we went in Tokyo. Maybe if you have kids to entertain.
  • Shibuya: We visited in the rain and couldn't explore much. Seemed mostly malls. Didn't discover anything special.
  • Yoyogi Park: Nice park but nothing extreme. Would be great during cherry blossom season. The central lake was closed for construction.
  • Perfect Days Film Toilets: We did the concept tour but 3-4 was enough. No soap in any of them, and they were generally dirtier than expected. Disappointment on the cleanliness front.
  • Takeshita Street: Overly touristy, packed with tourists. The rain didn't help either.
  • Shibuya Scramble Crossing: Crossed during daytime in rain, wasn't that crowded. Need to go during peak hours.
  • Hachiko Statue: Insane photo queue, even in the rain. People have truly lost it.
  • Tokyo Imperial Palace: Difficult to visit, appears open but actually runs 2-hour group tours only. We couldn't get in, but the gardens were pleasant.
  • Tokyo Tower: The main deck is quite nice but there's no cafe, just an ice cream stand. The ceremony to reach the top floor takes forever with video presentations. Views are good from both levels, but if time is short, the main deck alone suffices. Reiyukai Shakaden Temple looks gorgeous from above.
  • Roppongi: The crowd shifts noticeably here. Similar venues but a wealthier atmosphere, Tokyo's Nisantasi.

Food & Drink

  • Tsukiji Outer Market: Legendary seafood. We had king crab leg for 5,000 yen. Huge prawns, seafood heaven for enthusiasts.
  • Coco Nemaru Ginza: Outstanding wagyu, food was genuinely superb. Only wish: a better wine selection for a restaurant of this caliber.
  • Rio Dog Cafe: Absolutely awful smell inside. The concept repulsed me. Completely unnecessary, don't bother.
  • Benitsuru Pancake: We considered going but the 7 AM reservations were gone by 7:40. Pure social media mania.
  • Suke6 Diner: One of our best breakfasts in Japan. Listed as having queues but we got seated in 5 minutes. Going slightly later might help avoid crowds.
  • Asakusa Sumo Club: Show plus unlimited food. A bit pricey but the sumo show is entertaining. Must-visit for sumo fans.
  • Premier Mai: Fine-dining-style breakfast that isn't actually expensive. Yellow omelette and cheese toast were great, quality coffee. No sign outside, you have to ask around to find it.
  • Pepper Parlor: Robot cafe. Gimmicky, but the robots are comically stupid. Waiting for AI upgrades.
  • Tsurutontan Udon Noodle Brasserie: Excellent udon, plus solid sushi and tempura.
  • Gonpachi Nishi-Azabu: The famous Kill Bill restaurant. The atmosphere and food are genuinely excellent. Clearly designed for tourists but it delivers. The chicken skewers and seaweed-mussel salad were superb, and the wine selection was good.
  • Hard Rock Cafe Tokyo: Classic Hard Rock excellence as always.

Budget

Shopping:

  • Uniqlo Ginza: Phenomenal value. The Ginza flagship is endless and packed. 5th floor is usually less crowded for trying things on. Makes you shop like an Arab tourist.
  • Alpen: We went in looking for shoes but couldn't find what we wanted.
  • Biccamera: Expected a bigger electronics store but couldn't find anything we were looking for.
  • Don Quijote: Souvenir shop worth a quick in-and-out. Good finds.
  • Fuwari: Excellent for kitchen supplies. Very affordable prices, quality products. Stock up.
  • Nishimatsuya Rox 3G: Great for baby products with unique items at good prices.
  • Akachanhonpo LaLaport Toyosu: Also excellent for baby shopping.
  • Matsumoto Kiyoshi: Budget cosmetics.
  • Biople: Organic products in underground metro shops. High quality.

We'll be returning as soon as possible. Until then, see you later Tokyo.

My Place Reviews

Restaurants

TsuruTonTan UDON NOODLE Brasserie GINZAAug 2025★★★★★

The udon was top-notch, and the sushi and tempura were also really good.

Coco Nemaru GinzaAug 2025★★★★★

Incredible wagyu, the food was genuinely superb. I only wish they had a more varied and better wine list for such quality meat and restaurant.

Gonpachi Nishi-AzabuAug 2025★★★★★

The famous Kill Bill restaurant. Great vibe and food. Clearly designed for tourists, but they did a great job. The chicken skewers and the seaweed salad with mussels were excellent, and the wine selection was also good.

ASAKUSA SUMO CLUBAug 2025★★★★★

A place that offers both a meal and a show. A bit pricey, but it's all-you-can-eat and the sumo performance is quite entertaining. A must for sumo fans.

Suke6 DinerAug 2025★★★★★

One of the best breakfasts we had in Japan. It usually says there's a queue and shows no availability on TableCheck, but we only waited 5 minutes. Going a bit later might help avoid the crowd.

Pepper ParlorAug 2025★★★☆☆

A robot cafe, fun for the memes, but the robots are super dumb. We're waiting for an AI update.

Bars

Trattoria Pizzeria Bar FAVETTAAug 2025★★★☆☆

Wine options were practically nonexistent, which is shocking for an Italian restaurant. We had mushroom pizza and chicken, and it was just okay. Nothing too good, but you can go for it if you do not have any options.

Cafes

Island Vintage Coffee OdaibaAug 2025★☆☆☆☆

Lousy breakfast, rude staff, and undercooked bacon. Not worth it.

Hard Rock Cafe Tokyo RoppongiAug 2025★★★★★

Just as great as any other Hard Rock. Top-notch experience.

ROAR COFFEE Tokyo GinzaAug 2025★★★★☆

Nice banana bread, ice cream, and coffee.

Shochikuen CafeAug 2025★★★★★

A lovely vegan cafe. The desserts and coffee were excellent.

PREMIER MAIAug 2025★★★★☆

Like a fine dining breakfast spot but not too expensive. The yellow omelette and cheese toast were great, and the coffee was high quality. There's no sign outside, so you have to ask around to find it :)

Dog Cafe Rio in SHINJUKUAug 2025★☆☆☆☆

The smell inside was terrible. I was completely put off by the concept. Totally unnecessary and not worth visiting at all.

Hotels

Hotel Villa Fontaine Grand ShiodomeAug 2025★★★★★

Metro station right at the entrance. Super comfortable hotel, and we loved the rooms. Excellent choice overall.

Attractions

teamLab Planets TOKYO DMMAug 2025★☆☆☆☆

If you have a kid, then it would be enjoyable. Otherwise, no need to go. Mostly a tourist trap.

Shops

Wine Shop Ginza - Vinos & YamazakiAug 2025★★★★★

They have 8 wine fridges, offer 5 wines by the glass, and an unlimited bottle selection. They also sell bottles on-site, fully stocked. An amazing spot. They have both Japanese and international wines, and also sake.

Fish Market Tsukiji Outer MarketAug 2025★★★★★

Absolutely amazing seafood. We had king crab legs for 5,000 yen, giant prawns... a paradise for seafood lovers.

WINE SHOP CornerBar BLANCO asakusa ワインショップ コーナーバー ブランコ 浅草Aug 2025★★★★★

They had four Japanese wines and a total of eight by-the-glass options. The owners were very attentive, and the atmosphere was nice.

Biople ルミネエスト新宿店Aug 2025★★★★★

We really liked the range and the quality of the products.

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