Overview
A small and cold Finnish city we traveled to in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights. They were visible from our area exactly one day before and one day after our stay, but not during it. Combined with our Iceland trip the previous year, this made it the second time we left empty-handed.
Getting There
Since organized tour prices were outrageous, we went independently. Turkish Airlines has direct flights 2-3 times per week. We flew direct on the way there and routed through Helsinki on the return, both were comfortable.
Unlike Iceland, which is full of natural wonders, tourism here is built entirely around winter activities. We did, in order: ice karting, snowmobiling, horseback riding in the snow, a traditional Finnish sauna, and an ice hotel visit. All were genuinely fantastic.
What to See
Ice Karting: We went to Santa's Motor Park across from Santa Claus Village. Quite pricey, but drifting a car through the snow is priceless. Your hands will freeze, wear at least two layers of gloves.
Snowmobiling: Absolutely priceless. We joined Apukka's tour, riding across a frozen lake and through forests. They provide snow suits so you won't get cold, but bring sunglasses to protect from wind and glare. We loved seeing dedicated snowmobile road signs along the routes. It feels less like a tourist activity and more like using an everyday vehicle the locals actually rely on, which is exactly the case. One taxi driver told us he owns seven snowmobiles.
Horseback Riding in Snow: Also through Apukka. Since we had prior riding experience, we took the intermediate tour. Unfortunately, one of the four riders in our group fell off. No serious injury, but it scared everyone and cut the tour short. If you have no horse experience, you can skip this one.
Traditional Finnish Sauna: I'm not really a sauna person, my wife dragged me into this one. But I actually enjoyed it much more than regular saunas. The heater is essentially a wood-burning stove, like you'd find in Turkish villages, so the fire never gets boring. When it gets too hot, you step outside into the snow in a thin robe and come back feeling completely refreshed, able to stay much longer. I never imagined I wouldn't feel cold stepping out at -10 degrees in a bathrobe.
Ice Hotel: Since the largest ice hotel (Lapland Hotels Snow Village) is impossible to reach from Rovaniemi without a car, we visited the Arctic Snow Hotel, about 30 minutes away. More than sufficient, I'd say. The themed rooms and ice bar were great to explore. We didn't add the dinner package, and I'm glad we didn't, think twice before eating in a freezing ice restaurant.
Husky and Reindeer Tours: We chose not to do these after our pre-trip research indicated the animals aren't well treated. What we saw at the Husky Park near Santa Claus Village and the reindeer at our hotel Apukka confirmed this. I'd recommend skipping these activities if possible.
Icebreaker Tour: We had this booked but unfortunately had to cancel. Due to tragic news, we had to return a day early and missed our final-day activity. Hopefully we'll get to try it elsewhere someday.
Santa Claus Village: Seriously overrated. A 1-2 hour visit is more than enough and might even feel excessive. Without any connection to Santa culture, most of it feels empty. The line for a photo with the "official" Santa was insane. The Arctic Circle marker is a nice symbolic touch. For food, absolutely don't miss the Salmon Place, they cook salmon over a wood fire, portions are huge. The place is tiny though, so expect a wait. No restroom on-site, so handle that beforehand.
Where to Stay
Staying in Santa Claus Village is unnecessary. Unless you're going for the igloo hotel experience, a regular hotel in central Rovaniemi makes more sense, you can join Northern Lights hunting tours in the evenings. We stayed at Apukka, which had nice quality and atmosphere. Just a bit too aggressive with the upselling, they charge extra for everything.
If you're staying outside the city center, bring snacks and supplies. There are no stores outside Rovaniemi proper. In the center, Shopping Center Rinteenkulma has everything you need.
Tips & Advice
The cold is real. Dress very warmly. Our record was -28C at 7:30 AM on our departure day.
On car rentals: we debated it since taxis are expensive and we wanted to visit the distant ice hotel, but the road conditions scared us off. If you don't have extensive winter driving experience, absolutely do not rent. Main roads are clear but everything else is pure ice. Even within the city center, you're walking on icy surfaces. At the airport, the runway was quite icy, our Turkish Airlines pilot took a good 15-20 minutes to taxi what should have been a very short distance. Finnish pilots are used to it and go full speed, but for us newcomers, caution is key.
The locals were all lovely. The small-town feel combined with regular tourist traffic makes everyone warm and friendly.
Not a huge draw for repeat visits, but if you've never done a winter activity vacation before, it's a great once-in-a-lifetime destination.