Overview
Our baby homeland, which we explored on a 3-day, 2-night mini getaway at the end of September.
A heads-up for anyone planning to travel with their baby or child: if your child's ID doesn't have a photo, get one immediately. We somehow missed this detail, and on our first attempt, we had to turn back at customs. Thankfully, the airline refunded most of the last-minute cancellation, and the hotel agreed to shift our reservation to another date, so we got through this mistake unscathed.
Since we were traveling with a young baby, we planned to just explore the Famagusta-Varosha area rather than rushing around everywhere. For a 2-night, 3-day plan, it was more than sufficient, we didn't even have time to visit the Salamis ancient city.
E-SIM services that stopped working in Turkey still function in Northern Cyprus.
Getting There
- The airport is spotless, exit is smooth, virtually no queues. In Turkey, they give you an additional form at departure; they forgot to give us ours, but interestingly it wasn't a problem at entry.
- Taxis are generally Mercedes. Airport to Famagusta cost 3,000 TL (about 70 USD). Reasonable for a 1-hour trip.
- Renting a car is actually the smartest option, but since traffic drives on the left, we didn't dare.
- Our pre-arranged taxi driver didn't show up for our return trip, making the airport transfer stressful. Don't try to save money with an unknown driver, stick with your hotel's recommendations.
- The airport lounge was quite mediocre. Not really worth entering.
What to See
- If you're coming for the beach, late September is perfect, it's still warm. We went after closing beach season in Izmir, and the water was quite warm.
- The Famagusta walled city is very enjoyable. It's a large, expansive area with historical sites that never seem to end. With some investment, it could easily outshine Dubrovnik.
- Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque is truly impressive. Both massive and unique as a church-turned-mosque that's still actively used, quite rare.
- Entry to Varosha (the ghost city) is free. There's no beach entrance though, you need to go to the main gate. Buggy tours don't operate between 12-2 PM due to charging, and there are queues. Chauffeured rental is 750 TL for 3 people, 1,250 TL for 5.
- Varosha is a deeply affecting place. Currently only 20% is open, yet even that feels enormous. Seeing this environment makes your heart ache. It should be taught in schools worldwide from primary level onwards, a lesson for all of humanity.
- Late September is still very hot. If coming purely for cultural sightseeing, late October might be better.
- For the beach, Palm Beach was superb. No sunbeds or equipment at the venue, but you can set your things on the chairs and get in. Safe and affordable. One of the best seas I've ever swum in.
Food & Drink
- Don't go in with sky-high expectations for restaurants, but we were never unhappy with anything we ate either. Portions are especially generous.
- The halloumi cheese is excellent. We found a low-salt version at a place called Koy Pazari.
- Don't say "what's Turkish coffee doing in Cyprus?" - we really liked the Turkish coffee at Oza. Much more aromatic than what we're used to.
Tips & Advice
- The countryside is genuinely very barren, no trees, arid climate.
- Famagusta itself is very green. Water seems to be the key factor, with water available, it's almost tropical. We spotted Flamboyant trees at a few spots, the same ones we'd only seen in Cuba and Macau before, suggesting the climate would be tropical with sufficient water.
- Prices are very reasonable compared to Turkey. Large food portions. Safe and pleasant environment for exploring.
- Foreign tourists exist, especially Russians. Interestingly, there's a Black African working population.
- Buildings and structures are generally very old. Gave me a 1990s Turkey vibe. New large buildings are going up too, but like in Turkey, they're aesthetically bankrupt.